The culinary crossroads of Central Europe
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Espresso infused Sloppy Joes


Sloppy Joes were for me were always one of the most unappetizing things that American cuisine can offer.  Just look at them. Mushy cooked beef with store bought condiments. You plop them over cheap, additive-enriched bread, which will be with the human race long after we are gone. How could you even consider eating it? Right?

There is always a first time. The moments that change your perspective on the world and things evolving around it. There is the first taste of cake when you realize this world is not that bad (well, except the parents who limit it ;) ), a kiss where you realize you want more, there is the first moment when you realize it is time to try something scary. [Read more →]

June 14, 2011   2 Comments

Pogácsa – savory Hungarian biscuits in miniature


At my office in Hungary, you couldn’t have a meeting without pogácsa. Pogi, as they are affectionately known, are sort of the bagels of Budapest; if you organized a coffee break, you’d better provide pogácsa!

There are about as many different ways of making pogi as there are bakeries, and everyone has an opinion about where to find the very best. Some are rich and flaky, more like an American biscuit, while others are more solid, rather like a scone. They come in different sizes, too, from just an inch or so across to as big as a fist. You can get pogácsa made with cheese, with potato, with pumpkin seeds, with little bits of pork crackling, or any combination of all of that. Naturally, our favorite Budapest czukraszda, Daubner, makes some of the most tender, delicate and delicious pogácsa – they’re worth waiting in the long lines to get some hot from the oven.

Unlike some other bakery specialties, like Dobos Tort or Sacher Torte, though, you can make pogi at home easily and successfully. Valerian’s mother makes a version that is as much potato as flour, and every family seems to have its own treasured recipe. The ones we’re making here are both flaky and fluffy, studded with seeds and tangy with chèvre. Maybe you’d like to make some to bring to the office, as a change of pace. We took some to the preschool for Valentine’s Day, so instead of the traditional little rounds, we cut them in heart shapes. Whatever shape yours take, let us know how you like them!

Pogácsa – Hungarian cheese biscuits

This is a yeast dough, so factor in a couple of hours to let it rise. If you prefer, leave the pumpkin seeds whole for a different texture.

Ingredients

Makes about 2 dozen small pogácsa

  • 1⅓ cups flour
  • 1 Tbs instant yeast
  • 2 heaping Tbs salt
  • 4 oz/113 g chèvre (soft goat cheese)
  • 1 cup pumpkin seeds
  • 4 Tbs olive oil or pumpkin seed oil
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • yolk of one egg, for the wash

Method

  • In a dry pan over medium heat, toast the pumpkin seeds until they begin to hiss and pop. When they have cooled a bit, pulse them a few times in a food processor, or roughly chop with a knife.
  • In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, yeast, and chèvre to form a soft dough. Stir in the whole egg, the sour cream, and the the pumpkin seeds. With a wooden spoon or in a stand mixer, knead the dough until it forms a shaggy, somewhat sticky ball.
  • Cover and let rise in a warm place until double, about 2 hours.
  • Preheat the oven to 350° F/190° C.
  • Turn out the dough onto a floured surface. Sprinkling more flour as needed to keep the dough from sticking, roll it out to about ¼”/1 cm thick, then fold it in half, in half again, and one more time. Roll it out again to ¼” thick and repeat the folding twice more.
  • Rolls out the dough to about half an inch thick, and cut out your pogi with a biscuit cutter or even a small glass. Reroll as necessary to use up all the dough. Put the cut shapes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  • Lightly beat the egg yolk and brush it over the tops of your pogácsa for a nice shine.
  • Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the tops are nicely golden. Place on a wire rack to cool, and enjoy!

February 16, 2011   2 Comments

Vanilla Crescent Cookies – Vanilkové rohlíčky

Here is the promised third Czech Christmas Cookie. You can find a similar recipe in the December issue of Sauveur magazine, although they call it an Austrian cookie, which raised my blood pressure. Luckily there are bloggers out there who will correct these mistakes.

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December 20, 2010   4 Comments

Star Cookies – Hviezdičky

This is our second Christmas Cookie recipe. My dad’s favorite: the buttery, delicious, and very delicate “stars”. They melt on your tongue. You could make them in any shape, but stars are our tradition, with a window for the jam to peek out from between the layers.

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December 20, 2010   5 Comments

Fun with fusion – going Off the Grid in San Francisco

lecso and bao bun friends forever

Street food is the soul of the nation. It is true all over the world, except the USA. In Fort Mason, overlooking the San Francisco Bay, national identification merges with the scenery.

Let me back up a little bit. It is 2006 and I am visiting California. My in-laws respect my obsession with food and they love to show me fancy eateries. And I reciprocate, since I love to try them. It may have been a bit shocking for them when they asked me  about my favorite restaurant during my 2006 stay and I told them it was a taco truck.  Yes. The taco truck, which feeds workers in Napa. I remember very fondly visiting John, his vineyard, talking to the ripening grapes, uncovering the “sun blocking leaves”, and hoping to learn something about viticulture that could make my grapes in Slovakia the same as John’s in California. While the last will never happen, I do have happy memories of a taco truck, where I had my first encounter with pulled pork, as Anthony Bourdain would say a “noble beast”. And that memory stayed with me until last Friday.

Learning about a food-pornographic, decadent and morally filthy activity known as a “meeting of taco/food/catering trucks” was a revalation for me and I canceled all my job interviews. Jump in the car, let’s go! I have to admit, part of me was scared. I have such a fond memory of that first taco truck. What if these guys will ruin it? Well, see the result for yourself.

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September 21, 2010   2 Comments