“Oven-baked lángos!” When I first saw the sign at the Budapest Christmas fair years ago, I was puzzled. What is lángos about if not deep-fried greasy goodness? But judging from the crowds gathered around the stand, where a clay oven was stoked with wood and slabs of speckled dough were rotated in to bake over the coals, there must be something worthy of attention.

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Lángos (or langoš) is the fast food of Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic. It is probably the best way you can use flour, yeast, potatoes and water (oh, and a liter or so of frying oil). Like hot dog stands in New York, lángos stands in the cities of Central Europe feed crowds and crowds of people.

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